Author Topic: ID-51A/E - двухдиапазонная VHF/UHF D-STAR носимая станция  (Read 13281 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline ra3apw

  • Администратор
  • *****
  • Posts: 455
    • http://www.ra3apw.ru
Свершилось! На выставке Tokyo Ham Fair 2012 в Японии  Icom презентовал ID-51A/E - новую двухдиапазонную VHF/UHF D-STAR носимую станцию.

Станция ID-51A/E является развитием ID-31A/E и обеспечивает работу в обоих УКВ диапазонах 144 + 430 МГц.

ID-51A/E будет иметь понравившийся пользовательский интерфейс ID-31A/E с дисплеем большего размера, а также встроенный GPS приемник, D-STAR модуль, пылевлагозащиту по стандарту IPx7, слот SD карты и тонкий корпус подобный ID-31A/E.

Главные особенности:

•   VV / UU работа на 144МГц и 430МГц (возможен прием только одного DV сигнала - аналогично как сделано в IC-2820H/E2820).
•   Диапазоны приема для AM/FM: 118-137МГц (AM air band), 137- 174МГц и 380-479МГц
•   Большой графический дисплей
•   Индикация названия станции на дисплее 
•   Расширенная функция протоколирования - запись частот, времени, позиции и других параметров на SD карту
•   Улучшенная функция автоматического ответа. Станция может быть запрограммирована на автоматический ответ на определенные позывные   
•   Функция записи голосового трафика
•   Функция воспроизведения ранее записанных сообщений
•   Частоты и режим работы дублируются голосовыми сообщениями и звуковыми сигналами для возможности работы слепым операторам
•   Расширенный память для записи до 50 принятых позывных, которые можно экспортировать на SD карту.
•   Расширенная память для списка репитеров (до 750) и GPS данных (до 200)
•   Примерно на 10 мм выше и на 1 мм толще чем ID-31A/E
•   Выходная TX мощность в обоих диапазонах 5 Вт 

Более подробная информация на предварительном datasheet на ID-51A/E http://www.icomuk.co.uk/getFile.asp?categoryID=3508&cCID=17674&fFID=244.

На данный момент данных о цене и сроке выпуска станции ID-51A/E нет.

Источник http://www.icomuk.co.uk/News_Article/3508/17674/

« Last Edit: 29 August 2012, 16:02:12 by ra3apw »
Карен, RA3APW

Offline RUØLA

  • DStar
  • *
  • Posts: 5
Совсем другое дело!
Александр RUØLA

Offline R2AAAA

  • DStar
  • *
  • Posts: 8
Видео о новике.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eO1GQF7rg_M
Снято с экрана телика.
На hamradio.com повесили скидку на IC-92AD до 30 сентября сего года, можно предположить, что новинка появится в продаже с октября.
« Last Edit: 26 August 2012, 17:42:02 by R2AAAA »
Алексей, R2AAAA

Offline ra3apw

  • Администратор
  • *****
  • Posts: 455
    • http://www.ra3apw.ru
ICOM Япония объявила рекомендованную розничную цену (MSRP) новых D-Star трансиверов IC-7100 и ID-51.

IC-7100 158,000JPY = $2014.79 USD
ID-51 54,800JPY = $698.80 USD
Карен, RA3APW

Offline R2AAAA

  • DStar
  • *
  • Posts: 8
Да, уж ценник не "айс" совсем.
Алексей, R2AAAA

Offline ra3apw

  • Администратор
  • *****
  • Posts: 455
    • http://www.ra3apw.ru
Видео презентация по IC-7100 HF/VHF/UHF Amateur Radio Mobile Transceiver & ID-51A/E D-STAR от ICOM UK - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_engE51qtAQ&feature=youtu.be
Карен, RA3APW

Offline ra3apw

  • Администратор
  • *****
  • Posts: 455
    • http://www.ra3apw.ru
По неофициальной информации поставки ID-51 начнутся в январе 2013 года по цене 660 USD.
Карен, RA3APW

Offline ra3apw

  • Администратор
  • *****
  • Posts: 455
    • http://www.ra3apw.ru
Карен, RA3APW


Offline ra3apw

  • Администратор
  • *****
  • Posts: 455
    • http://www.ra3apw.ru
Рекомендованная ICOM цена на ID-51A в США будет 629.95 USD.
Карен, RA3APW

Offline R2AAAA

  • DStar
  • *
  • Posts: 8
Рекомендованная ICOM цена на ID-51A в США будет 629.95 USD.
Навряд ли, universal-radio.com повесил ценник  $756.00
http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/ht/0051.html
Алексей, R2AAAA

Offline ra3apw

  • Администратор
  • *****
  • Posts: 455
    • http://www.ra3apw.ru
Рекомендованная ICOM цена на ID-51A в США будет 629.95 USD.
Навряд ли, universal-radio.com повесил ценник  $756.00
http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/ht/0051.html

Эти данные с прямой видео трансляции "D-STAR Live" от 29 декабря 2012 г., в которой принимал участие Ray Novak, N9JA, Icom America's General Manager.
Видел и слышал данные по цене ID-51 сам лично.
Карен, RA3APW

Offline R2AAAA

  • DStar
  • *
  • Posts: 8
ID-51A - вышла в продажу!!!
Убрали надпись о не доступности данного товара с сайта icomamerica
http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/ht/0051.html цена - $639.95
http://www.hamradio.com/detail.cfm?pid=H0-011765 цена - $629.95
« Last Edit: 18 January 2013, 09:51:37 by R2AAAA »
Алексей, R2AAAA

Offline ra3apw

  • Администратор
  • *****
  • Posts: 455
    • http://www.ra3apw.ru
Прекрасно, хотя, конечно, дороговато...

Заметьте, что цена на ID-51, о которой сообщал еще 29 декабря прошлого года, совпала до цента.
« Last Edit: 18 January 2013, 11:57:49 by ra3apw »
Карен, RA3APW

Offline ra3apw

  • Администратор
  • *****
  • Posts: 455
    • http://www.ra3apw.ru
Модификация N5GQB над трансивером ID-51, связанная с улучшением качества сигнала на передачу и заключающаяся в удалении защитной водонепроницаемой мембраны перед микрофоном станции.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This is an internal mic mod that I did on the 51a, based on a similiar mod I did to the 31a when it first came out.
Fwiw- the 31 mic mod is slightly different and will comment a bit on that later at the end.

Preamble:
I tried to include a lot of detail in the description of the mod so pics would not be needed so bear with me. However don't let that scare you as the mod is fairly simple and doesn't take long. However please read thru the whole mod first to familiarized yourself with it.

Why need the mod?
Unfortunatley Icom did not fix the  muffled bassy tx audio with the 51a that also was an issue with the 31a when it first came out.
So unless you use a hand mic (or do the mod) you will have muffled bassy audio with the 51a. There are tone adjustments you can do (bass cut and treble boost) and they do help a bit, but are still a long ways off in improving the TX audio.

Cause:
The problem is caused by the weather proofing seal inside the mic hole. It  makes it sound like you have your hand cupped in front of your mouth while your trying to talk on the radio. Not sure why they didn't use the same method/material as in the 92ad as it sounds good and its water proof.
Anyway as you guessed by now this membrane has got to go to solve this. Yes you will loose waterproofing (to a degree) at the mic with this mod. However I feel that the radio will still be splash resistant but no longer submersible. If any of that bothers you then please do not proceed and yes, you could void the warranty by doing the mod. I am not Icom so I cannot comment any further about their warranty.
While nearly all of us do not plan on purposely soaking/submerging our radio, there is always that slim chance of an unforeseen accident. If you do the mod then that is the chance you take.

The mod:
Let me say first off while the mod is not hard, please take you time and do not rush, be easy and careful. That's the last thing you want to do is to jack up a new $$$ radio in any way.
If you blotch something up then its your own fault and were probably not being careful enough. So you have been warned.
Ok the radio comes apart quite easily and is a one piece unit inside. Probably the hardest thing is getting the nut off from around the SMA connector (the nut for the volume/selector can stay). Really helps if you have the proper tool to do this. Otherwise you'll have to improvise. A tiny pair of needle nose pliers with small tips (to fit in the spanner slots) works good. But use what works best for you. Be really careful not to scrape the SMA threads while removing this nut, it is easy to do. A piece of tape wrapped around the  SMA threads will help.

Lets get started:
1) What you want to do first is to remove the battery, antenna and the knobs off the top. The knobs can be a bit stubborn so a small flat blade screwdriver to pry may help. Be easy so you don't mar anything up. Start with the top knob first then the outer ring knob.
2) Next step is to remove the nut from around the SMA connector. It is fairly snug but not super tight. It is not necessary to remove the nut from the volume knob but if you do so be sure to tuck the orange o-ring back in the case when putting the nut back on.
3) Next remove the two small black screws at the bottom corners inside where the battery was. You do not need to remove the round black patch that's also in the same area.

4) Next remove your SD card and open up all flap covers. These can cause issues (binding) when trying to pop the main unit out of the case. Now take a small jewelers flat blade screwdriver (or similiar tool) and carefully stick in between the case and metal frame just above where you removed the screws. Carefully and slowly start to pry out the bottom of the radio. It is pretty much being held in place by a rubber o-ring running around the frame. Don't worry the o-ring will stay in place around the radio. Once out then set aside.

5) Next look inside the front cover to the lower left of the speaker and you will see the water proof seal and a small foam type o-ring covering the mic hole. This seal needs to come off. Carefully and slowly begin to scrape at the edges of the seal and try to get underneath and to slowly remove. Take your time you do not want to damage it, as you will need to re-install the o-ring part, more later. A small sharp flat edge like a small jewelers flat head or similar works ok.

*Now at this point you have three choices*
A) First method you can make/cut a nice round hole, the size of the o-ring hole in the seal. It needs to be this size, because if you just make a small hole in it, you will get poor results. *Remember do not tear up the o-ring as it has to go back into the radio.
B) Second method you can take a break away blade knife or other very sharp knife and carefully separate the actual seal from the o-ring. They are glued together. You may wish to do this B method if you think would want put the seal back in for whatever reason. You will want to make sure you get all of the o-ring off the seal.
C) Third method preserves the oring/seal in its original state. it is a bit trickier to do this third method but no cutting a hole in the factory seal or separating the two parts.
In place of the using the original oring you will need to search out a typical tiny rubber oring that's the same size as the foam washer **Pay particular attention to the thickness to the oring** Thinner walled orings are better than thicker walled orings. You definitely do not want anything any thicker than the stock foam oring. Because you do not want stress put on the board when you go to put the screws back in. THINK ABOUT IT, the original is dense foam and the mic mashes up against it when assembled, but it has some give. If you put too thick of a washer, then when you assemble the radio, the too thick oring will mash too hard up against the mic thus pressing on the circuit board its on and could cause stress damage somewhere. *TIP* If you find a right sized oring but its a bit too thick then use a razor blade knife to evenly slice it to the thickness that works. You can check to see if it will be a good fit by seeing if the left screw hole in the metal frame (I'm talking about the same screw holes in the battery section you removed that hold the radio unit in the case) come in contact (or almost) with the post that it screws into. Pay attention to the left screw hole as it is closer to the mic. You will need to lightly press on the radio unit to sort of simulate the screws being in. You may need a bright light to see whats going on. If you have a noticeable gap then trim the oring or find another thinner wall one. You can also view the right side screw hole for comparison, they should be even. After assembled do some audio quality checks. If still poor then you may have used too thin of an oring. See second half of step 6 for reason.
If you have done method C then you do not need to do step 6. Save your intact seal/oring for later needs.

6) Now, put that o-ring back in the same spot where removed in the front cover.
There should be enough residual glue to hold in place. Make sure the o-ring is up against the ridge along the top of the mic hole area, otherwise you may get partial blockage of sound. Double check by looking thru the mic hole both ways for a clean view and adjust accordingly.
**The reason you need that o-ring in place is it provides an acoustical seal for the mic. It cuts down on the sound going around the mic causing a hollow muffled sound. Yes it really does make a big difference in sound quality. If you do not have a good seal then this will happen.

Btw- do not remove the dust cover that is on the mic itself.  It will make no difference.

OK! Your done! Put the radio back together. If you wish to test before you put everything back then at least put the 2 small black screws back in to get the mic to press against the o-ring seal.

New mic level settings:
You can now run the internal mic gain at 1 or 2. 3 if you tend to speak quietly.
As for mic eq settings I still recomend bass cut and treble boost.

As for the 31a... the mod is the same but actually easier.  The radio comes apart in the same way but when you get to the mic weather seal, there is only the patch over the hole which has to be removed. Reason is that there is a removable rubber sleeve over the mic that forms the o-ring type seal along the top of the mic. Which does the same job as the o-ring in the 51. I actually like that better than the 51 design. No separation work of the o-ring or putting a hole in the weather seal.

73,
Sly n5gqb
Ref 4b
Карен, RA3APW